Negotiation

The respondents mention several examples of them discarding products or brands because they have become mainstream. They discard the products or brands because they will no longer provide them with the status that the respondents are seeking. The consumers are in constant negotiation with themselves of what will be perceived as authentic to their self and what products or brands that will label them as just another one of those. The consumers also have an internal discussion of whether they should choose to stay true to themselves or their tribes. What can be perceived as self-authenticating can be the opposite of what will make the consumers stay true to their tribes.

The conflict is between what is expected of them in a specific social role and their own identity.

The respondents discuss how they aspire to be in complete control of their lives with a well-balanced economy and mental energy (Danish: Styr på det). The respondents do admit that this type of ideal self is practically impossible to achieve. It is also not aligned with their true self as this ideal self provides them with a lot of stress and pressure. The respondents have as a result of the stress and pressure, trouble achieving this expected self in the form of a social role. This type of ideal self does not reflect the female consumers’ true self. It is a front influenced by socio-cultural meaning in society, so that they can appear as a “perfect” woman. The conclusion for this research is that the authentic self-defined as the “true self” (Handler, 1986, p. 3) is not aligned with the ideal self. The female consumers’ ideal self is influenced by what they feel is expected of them in the form of social roles made up of norms. Not what would feel most right for themselves. A product or brand used for the ideal self may not be an authentication act as it is more a representation of what is expected of oneself. The study also shows that keeping up an ideal self can be stressful for the female consumers especially when the consumers let themselves down.

What the respondents see as their ideal selves are also not necessarily aligned with the resources that the respondents have available. The consumers can have a brand or product in mind that if there were no limit, they would use it in their identity project. The limitation can be financial or time. The consumers want to be environmentally friendly in their consumption but do neither have the money nor the time to research the brands. The study shows that the consumer finds a way to

Side 111 af 255 compromise what they can do and what they need. As a result, consumers sometimes try to buy organic food when they have the resources for it.

The compromise can also be financial where the consumer finds a way to show their identity with fewer resources. The compromise was especially relevant in relation to uniqueness. All the female participants wanted to be somewhat unique in their identity but as there is a limit to the supply of objects in the market they had to compromise. Flea markets was an example of finding an object that was not in the commercial market. In this way, the female consumers could find a unique object that they also ascribed with their symbolism. Not only is this a compromise with the uniqueness it was also relevant in regards to status. As luxury consumption is highly correlated with status-seeking, female consumers used luxury goods to buy a higher status. The female consumers then had to find a way to afford the status symbols which was often delayed because of their financial situation. The study shows that the delay often resulted in a change in the image and symbolic meaning of the objects. This change then ended up changing the consumers’ mind towards the object. The goal and dream of owning the objected ended, and a new dream was found (Turunen, 2018).

Overall, this study shows that there are many obstacles for female consumers when using luxury objects to form their identity. The female consumers have to find a balance between their own and collective identity. This balance is, when it comes to luxury goods, especially relevant concerning uniqueness but still being a part of their tribes. Other obstacles are in relation to the consumers’

limits of resources whether mental or financial. In conclusion, the consumers find ways of compromising and have defence mechanisms in place to balance their identity project to their life situation.

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7 Managerial Implications

In this study, it was found that the definition of luxury is highly individual. Brand managers have to understand the complexity of the definition of luxury. The definition is not constant and may change, not only from consumer to consumer but also over time. In this study, it is confirmed that the perception of extended self and the perception of uniqueness is highly relevant in the perception of luxuriousness. For brand managers, this means that in order to manage a luxury brand, they have to consider what role the brand and its products play in the consumers’ extended self and how unique the brand and its products are. Uniqueness is not only understood as one of a kind objects but also as a symbolic meaning that the consumer can ascribe to the object that will further transfer on to the consumer. It is possible for a brand and its product to be unique even if it has become mainstream in the marketplace, as the example of Royal Copenhagen in this study shows.

This study shows how monumental changes, in the cultural meaning ascribed to products and brands, are for the female consumer's identity project. The cultural meaning and symbolism ascribed is a crucial motivator in the consumers’ purchase behaviour. For female consumers, changes in this meaning can change how the consumers perceive and use the object. The meaning can change in numerous different ways. One way it can change is if the symbolic meaning changes as a result of the brand changing. An active choice from the brand to change strategy can influence the symbolic meaning that the consumers ascribe to the brand. A second way that the meaning can change is when a new customer group starts to purchase the brand. For consumers who are already loyal to the brand, a new customer group can change the perceived brand meaning for loyal customers. This change is primarily related to when the new customer group is stigmatised and unwanted by the loyal customers. The last way meaning changes is when society changes. With changes in society, customers change too. Society and customers might not value things the same way. Cultural meaning is not constant over time. Instead, it is continuously changing and evolving.

For brand managers, it is essential to understand that these changes in cultural and symbolic meaning can happen. If brand managers are aware of these changes, they are able to take measures in order to try and keep the brand meaning stable or change the brand meaning in the desired way.

Side 113 af 255 Brand managers have to monitor the changes in society in order to understand any threats towards their brand meaning.

Brand managers also have to understand the consequences of a shift to a perceived negative meaning. This study found that a shift in brand meaning for loyal customers feel like a breach of contract. For the customers who have transferred the brand meaning on to their identity, it means that the symbolic meaning may longer match what the customers intended to signal. The customers feel that the agreement that was when they bought the object is no longer the same, and as a result there is a breach of contract. The brand managers need to take this into account when planning a strategy change. If the loyal customers do not recognise themselves in the new symbolic meaning, they ascribe to the brand, they can react by switching brand. Whether the customers decide to consume the brand still, is determined by how close the relationship to the brand is to the consumers’ feeling of identity. Loyal consumers that are confident in their attachment to the brand will still consume the brand even if the symbolic meaning changes. Brand managers have to take loyal customers relationship to the brand into account when the brand meaning changes.

For brand managers, it is also highly relevant to understand the values that are most critical when talking about change. Because luxury goods are highly interrelated with perceived uniqueness, it is essential to keep it constant or carefully change. The brand's customers need to feel a uniqueness in consuming the object. That does not mean the brand needs to offer one-of-a-kind objects.

Instead, it means a symbolic meaning of uniqueness. For customers, this means that the brand needs to offer them a unique way of consuming so that the customers can feel no one does it for them. As important as it is to be unique, being a part of a tribe is just as crucial for the consumers.

For brand managers, this means that they need to find a balance between offering a unique symbolic meaning and still not be too unique so that the customer will risk stigmatisation. A well-done example of this balance was offered in this research by the brand Royal Copenhagen. Royal Copenhagen started a campaign about mixing and matching the different product lines of tableware. The campaign came as a response to the customers feeling the brand was becoming mainstream. By being able to mix and match the customers could regain a feeling of uniqueness.

The uniqueness came as a result of the time and resources the customers put into finding the right mix and match for their collection. Royal Copenhagen not only satisfies their customers need for

Side 114 af 255 uniqueness but also their need for security in their tribe. Royal Copenhagen’s mix and match allow for the customers to make a unique choice within a fashion that others also ascribe to. The result of this study shows that brand managers need to understand how they can incorporate an aspect of uniqueness in an otherwise mainstream brand. In this form, a brand that have become mainstream can still experience consumers perceiving it as unique.

A notion that seemed to be extremely vital for the female consumers is that of “styr på det” (well balanced and in control of one’s life). The attribute of being well-balanced and in control is crucial for female consumers feeling of success and status. For brand managers, this seems to be a notion that can contribute to the brand connecting with the female consumer. The brand can choose to use this phenomenon in two ways: The brand can choose to play into the notion or choose to be a relief from the notion. Brands can use the notion in their message and symbolic meaning by being the embodiment of being in control. Brands can choose to be a brand that has this ascribed notion of well-balanced and in control. A notion that the consumers can then transfer to their own identity and signal to others. The brand can also choose to be a safe place and offer relief. It can be done by offering the meaning of not caring about being perfect and having everything under control. The brand can instead offer the symbolic meaning of the consumers being great just the way they are.

It can play into the consumers need for more independence from others’ opinion.

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8 Further Research

This study presented an understanding of female consumers uses of luxury goods in their identity project. This chapter offers suggestions for the elaboration of the results that were found throughout the research.