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5. Analysis

5.2 Themes

will never exist (Appendix 9). Yet Pride collections can be fine if the businesses actually care about and support the LGBT+ community (Appendix 9). Additionally, when designing the Pride collection, LGBT+ Danmark encourages companies to consult with members of the LGBT+ community to gain insights about their lives and how to support them with clothing (Appendix 9). Moreover, LGBT+

Danmark would like the businesses to be bolder than just implementing the rainbow flag in the product design, even though a small symbol is appreciated (Appendix 9). “For me, when I walk on the street, it can be quite difficult for people to see that I am gay. And for me to wear something Pride-ish, it can be quite nice because I can be recognised as gay. And I can also wear Pride things and don't be recognised as gay anyway. But I think that can be nice to have like small symbols where you can recognise each other. That's kind of cool, I think.” (Appendix 9, s. 12).

to tell. By providing a real cast of LGBT+ people instead cookie models, the brands provide a mirror image for LGBT+ people, which is key within LGBT+ representation according to LGBT+ Danmark.

Additionally, the brands contribute to filling the gap of LGBT+ representation in advertising, which was emphasised by LGBT+ Danmark. Furthermore, all the brands decided to launch their Pride collections in partnership with LGBT+ organisations, meaning a percentage of the proceeds was donated to charities supporting the LGBT+ community and LGBT+ causes. Whereas River Island decided to donate a fixed amount of £3 per sale of its Pride collections to Ditch The Label, Levi´s®

and Lola Ramona decided to donate 100% of the proceeds for the Pride collections to OutRight, Copenhagen Pride, World Pride and FSTB respectively. By entering partnerships with LGBT+

organisations and donating money towards LGBT+ causes, the brands show that they care about and support the LGBT+ community, which was the main criteria for an acceptable Pride collection mentioned by LGBT+ Danmark.

5.2.2 Beyond Pride

Despite the brands’ strong presence during Pride via Pride collections and Pride related content, Levi´s®, Lola Ramona and River Island have also launched several initiatives related to LGBT+

representation outside the context of Pride celebrations. Two distinct examples are River Island’s

#LABELSAREFORCLOTHES campaign and Levi’s® Beauty of Becoming campaign, which both highlight important societal issues and advocate for change while representing diverse, marginalised groups such as LGBT+ people. Additionally, Lola Ramona’s approach to providing its Pride collections and size-inclusive products year-round also attributes to its LGBT+ representation going beyond Pride.

Other examples include providing a platform to local LGBT+ initiatives such as Levi’s® support of a Swedish LGBT+ youth centre, River Island’s support to a British theatre group for disadvantaged and socially deprived children, and Lola Ramona’s support to the Danish drag subculture by collaborating with high profile drag queens and sponsoring drag bingos and hosting drag auctions. By providing all-year-round LGBT+ representation, the brands show that they understand and genuinely care about the LGBT+ community, which limits potential accusations of pinkwashing according to LGBT+

Danmark.

5.2.3 Cultivating social change

Common to Levi’s®, Lola Ramona and River Island are their aspiration to cultivate social change via LGBT+ representation. In this case, social change primarily relates to political and/or societal issues with the aim to promote LGBT+ equality and LGBT+ acceptance. This means that the aspiration to cultivate social change can be spurred by many different issues. Politically, Levi’s® has been a strong LGBT+ ally as the brand continuously advocate for LGBT+ equality within areas of health, marriage and discrimination. Additional, Levi’s® has also advocated for social changes by providing visibility to the LGBT+ community, via its continuous representation of diverse LGBT+ people, and relevant LGBT+ causes, e.g. respecting all gender identities by using correct pronouns. Likewise, Lola Ramona joins the fight for social change by providing genderfluid, size-inclusive products and inclusive marketing to fulfil a previously unmet consumer need, give back to the LGBT+ community and encourage gender expression beyond the binary. Similarly, River Island advocates social changes by challenging preconceived stereotypes and encouraging self-expression of one’s true self. Based on all this, the overall goal is to cultivate social change by advocating for relevant LGBT+ causes and providing visibility to real, diverse LGBT+ people in order to normalise LGBT+ people in advertising and in society in general. According to LGBT+ Danmark, visibility is crucial to the LGBT+ community because it affirms that LGBT+ people can live good, fulfilling lives. This means that LGBT+

representation plays an important role in the perception of what it means to identify as an LGBT+

person.

5.2.4 Being authentic self

One of the main giveaways from the interview with LGBT+ Danmark was the all-consuming need for companies to look inwards before attempting any kind of LGBT+ representation. By having a diverse and inclusive workplace, LGBT+ Danmark emphasises that businesses are able to ensure the general well-being of its employees and customers, while also avoiding potential complaints of pinkwashing.

Furthermore, LGBT+ Danmark also highlights the importance of consulting with LGBT+ people about future initiatives of LGBT+ representation plus consulting with professionals about internal inclusion and diversity policies. When looking at Levi’s®, Lola Ramona and River Island, they all more or less adhere to these principles. As the largest corporation out of the brands, Levi’s® has been awarded the distinction of being one of the best place to work for LGBT+ people by HRC due to its inclusion

and diversity management policies and initiatives such as ERGs that create safe space for diverse employees. Additionally, based on its long history of being an LGBT+ ally, Levi’s® intent of LGBT+

representation radiates authenticity. Likewise, River Island also prides itself by having an inclusive and diverse working environment with zero tolerance of discrimination. In order to evolve its policies and activity around diversity and inclusion, River Island has entered a partnership with Blue Print For All, which specialises in professional consultancy within diversity and inclusion. As the smallest company of the brands, Lola Ramona does not currently have any intricate diversity policies but, like both Levi’s® and River Island, it is very aware of the importance of inclusivity and diversity including the complexity of the LGBT+ community. Moreover, Lola Ramona has utilised its contacts within the LGBT+ community in order to consult with them about different aspects of its LGBT+

representation such as products and partnerships. By fostering an inclusive working environment, the brands’ intent of LGBT+ representation is more like to be perceived as being authentic, meaning a significant decrease in likelihood of pinkwashing accusations.