Parametric architecture – Parametric fashion

Reaching the present day, we should take into account the current technological possibilities, the computing power of modern computers and the strength of the impact they now have on the design process. One can even say that modern fashion and architecture increasingly derive from modern technological capabilities. This way, when observing contemporary design we can see how more and more mathematics, parametrization and algorithms enter into the creation of spatial forms.¹ As a result, the approach to architectural and fashion design has now changed. This parametric approach to creating forms involves a way of thinking that under the given restrictions ensures the largest number of parameters the designer cares about. Computational design comes down to finding functional dependencies among individual elements both in space and compositions, as well as (what is most important in the parametric approach) the functionality of the form.² If the intention is to affect the correctness of the project, then mathematics is a tool that enables optimization in the design.³

1 Wassim Jabi, Parametric Design for Architecture (London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd., 2013)

2 Kostas Terzidis, Algorithmic Architecture (Oxford: Architectural Press/Elsevier, 2006)

3 Michael Hensel, Achim Menges, Morpho-Ecologies: Towards a Discourse of Heterogeneous Space in Architecture, (London: AA Publications, 2006)

105 Therefore in architecture, thanks to parametric design, we can reduce energy consumption, provide cooling in the summer, ensure the sunlight analysis, simulate the movement of people, adjust the ratio of glazing to the weather conditions or the amount of heat penetrating facades, etc.

In architecture, the Absolute Towers project by Mad Architects is an example of form generated parametrically (Fig. 5a). To illustrate such an approach to design, the author has depicted an algorithm for a twisted ellipsoidal tower in figure with Grasshopper algorithm. (Fig. 5b).

a. b.

Fig.5(a): Parametric tower, source: http://www.i-mad.com;

Fig.5(b): Parametric tower - Grasshopper algorithm, Fig. by author: A.Czech

Another example of parametric design is the Swallow's Nest For Taichung, new cultural center by Vincent Cellebaut (Fig. 6a). Again, the attempt the author has made to reproduce the algorithm of its creation is depicted in igure with Grasshopper algorithm. (Fig. 6b)

a. b.

Fig.6(a): Parametric architecture design, source: http://vincent.callebaut.org ; Fig.6 (b): Parametric “nest” - Grasshopper algorithm, Fig. by author: A.Czech

Similarly, fashion designers search for aspects of their projects that can be related algorithmically using mathematical functions, while maintaining a level of flexibility, for example, when needing to make changes in size. For example, when designing parametric shoes, the designer depends on the possibility of giving them as little weight as possible, while maintaining stiffness and size. The

Technion, Israel Institute of Technology Faculty of Architecture and Town Planning

106 parametrically designed shoes by Alessio Spinelli can provide a good example (Fig. 6a). Julia Körner is an Austrian architect who collaborated with the Dutch fashion designer Iris Van Herpen on the digitally fabricated Haute Couture collection (Fig.6b) Körner works on transferring technology into everyday clothing production, as she believes:

"Body scanning and 3D-modelling techniques allow you to design towards a perfect fit, and through minimal changes in the code I can create variations of adaptations in the design (…) This automated process is a revolution in customized fashion pieces within ready to wear."¹

a. b.

Fig.7(a): Parametric shoes design, source: http://www.alessiospinelli.com;

Fig.7(b): Parametric fashion design in Biopiracy collection, source:

http://www.irisvanherpen.com

5. Conclusion

Considering the design process, fashion and architecture are not such distant fields of art, as they may first seem. Quite similar algorithms guide the formation of clothing and buildings: analysis of initial conditions, determination of function, formulation of ideas and development of form.

Logical thinking seems to be a key aspect of this process. Since the design process cannot reject common sense, is fashion design and architecture actually art? Because both buildings as well as clothing are products that primarily have to be functional, creativity is only one of the components of their formation. A good, proper project cannot be realized without logical thinking.

Cybernetics, algorithm, and parameterization – seems to indicate the direction in which the modern world is heading. This trend is more and more noticeable in art, fashion and architecture.

In fashion and architecture, the use of a computer to make algorithms for creating new forms

1 Dan Howarth Inteview with Julia Körner: "Technology adds an incredible advantage to fashion design" Dezeen Magazine September( 2014)

http://www.dezeen.com/2014/09/23/julia-koerner-interview-fashion-technology-3d-printing-haute-couture-ready-to-wear/

107 reveals a new common denominator in the creative process that takes the form of logical mathematical notation. This form of creation has many advantages and gives the design a broad spectrum of possibilities, such as: optimization of forms (e.g. energetically), "extinction" of unfavorable forms (e.g. non-functional), full use of technological advances, innovative approaches to spatial forms. In general, it opens our minds to a new way of designing. But it also raises the question as to whether the human element is getting lost in the design process, and whether it leads to the loss of the "soul" of the building or clothing. Because the design process begins to roll out itself after the inception of the algorithm, the creator seems to be significant only at the beginning while specifying targets. Such an abandonment of standards and habits generates a transformation of civilization and is contrary to the archetype of the building or clothing.

Technion, Israel Institute of Technology Faculty of Architecture and Town Planning

108 References

1. Benoit B. Mandelbrot, The fractal geometry of nature. (NY: W. H. Freeman and Company NY, 1983)

2. Bernard Jaffé, De Stijl, 1917–1931, The Dutch Contribution to Modern Art. (Amsterdam:

J.M. Meulenhoff, 1956)

3. Brenda Polan, Roger Tredre, The Great Fashion Designers,( New York: Berg Publisher, 2009), p.239

4. Cheryl Lavin, "Thinking is the enemy of creativity. It's self-conscious..., Chicago Tribune (1997)

5. http://articles.chicagotribune.com/1997-11-16/features/9711160116_1_ray-bradbury-creative-carl-rogers

6. Coco Chanel Quote in: Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel: Her Life, Her Secrets (London:

Robert Hale Ltd,1972)

7. Dan Howarth Inteview with Julia Körner: "Technology adds an incredible advantage to fashion design" Dezeen Magazine September( 2014)

8. (http://www.dezeen.com/2014/09/23/julia-koerner-interview-fashion-technology-3d-printing-haute-couture-ready-to-wear/)

9. “Interview with Karl Lagerfeld and Zaha Hadid”, Wallpaper magazine 91 (September 2006)

10. Kostas Terzidis, Algorithmic Architecture (Oxford: Architectural Press/Elsevier, 2006) 11. Mark Wigley, The Architecture of Deconstruction: Derrida's Haunt.(Cambridge: MIT Press,

1995)

12. Mary A. Caws (eds), Surrealist Painters and Poets: An Anthology (Cambridge: MIT Press, 2001)

13. Michael Hensel, Achim Menges, Morpho-Ecologies: Towards a Discourse of Heterogeneous Space in Architecture, (London: AA Publications, 2006)

14. Pablo Picasso Quote in Franca Sozzani “The chief enemy of creativity is good sense”

Editior’s Blog, Vouge (2013);http://www.vogue.it/en/magazine/editor-s-blog/2013/02/february-20th

15. Rudolf Arnheim, Art and Visual Perception: A Psychology of the Creative Eye. (Berkley:

University of California Press,1974).

16. Salvador Dalí, Richard Howard (transl.) Diary of a Genius,(London:Creation Books, 1994) 17. Takeo Kanade, A Theory of Origami World, North-Holland Publishing Company (1980) 18. (https://www.ri.cmu.edu/pub_files/pub3/kanade_takeo_1980_1/kanade_takeo_1980_

1.pdf)

19. Wassim Jabi, Parametric Design for Architecture (London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd., 2013)

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