Interviews transcripts

and this shop and specifically look for jeans. So those are actually the two shopping approaches that I have: like, on one side just walk around and check stuff, and on the other side, it’s when I say “Ok, I need a new pair of jeans or whatever” I directly go to the store and look for these stuff specifically.

[AleB]: But do you have like specific brands or stores that you always go for example?

[Interviewee 1]: I mean, like, I have my “go to” stores that I check out more or less on regular basis, and most of them have like various brands, but there also brands’ specific stores where they sell just one brand.

[AleB]: So you would be open for example to new brands?

[Interviewee 1]: Yeah, yeah, like also when there’s a friend of mine that’s like “Hey, have you checked on this tore?” then I would for sure go there or when I see they have opened something new I’m usually very interested, like, to check it out and to go there and to see what they have.

[AleB]: Do you shop according to the latest trends?

[Interviewee 1]: Mmh… I wouldn’t say so. Sure, I would say, everyone is influenced by the latests trends, but I try to always keeping my own style in a way, or to stick to what I like. It’s always like a combination for sure of the latest trends but I try to adapt the trend to myself.

Like, let’s say that last year, but it’s still on going, you gave the trend of the chunky sneakers, then I’m not buying the fancy chunky sneakers from like Balenciaga, but maybe I’d check for example Nike and I find something that I like that has this kind of style… Then I would buy it, but it’s my taste in that, so I don’t follow the specific trends strictly.

[AleB]: What is the last thing you bought for yourself?

[Interviewee 1]: A pair of pants at COS for work.

[AleB]: How do you describe your style? Before you said that you don’t follow the trends but you follow your style.

[Interviewee 1]: That’s a good question. I would say, in a way, I always try to have the classic style, kind of not too much on it, pretty clean, and then combined with something edgy or… I don’t know how to describe it in English too much, but like you have this specific clean style combined with something maybe eye catching or something. So you have this very clean look, from COS for example or from Acne or something like this, and then you try to combine it with something more catchy and, like I said, you have on the one hand the stuff that you can wear for years combined with the more on trend stuff. That’s always the combination I want to make.

Like, I know that everybody say that, but I don’t want to look like everyone else. And also

details are important for me, like socks or stuff like this, that normal people maybe don’t take care of.

[AleB]: Do you care about other people’s opinions about your style?

[Interviewee 1]: It depends on the people. Of course some people have an influence over me, some my close friends or my brother for sure. Those people, I really value their opinion, because I know they kind of have the same style or information that I have on things that other people would say straight away “oh that’s ugly”. But it also depends on the occasion, if it’s something for work I would ask my parents or my mum like, “hey, would do you think about this?” or

“can I wear that?”, but if I would buy sneakers or jeans or something I don’t need to ask my mum because she doesn’t have any opinion.

[AleB]: Yeah, perfect. And if you don’t mind me asking, where does your income come from?

Do you have some funds/sponsorships? Like your parents help you or...

[Interviewee 1]: Yes for sure, my parents help me, or helped me especially while I was studying. Then I can still, I mean, I mean, I have a lifestyle where I buy a lot of stuff and I go out eating.i mean, I’ve always worked but without the help of my parents this type of lifestyle wouldn’t have been possible.

[AleB]: Ok, now I can move forward. As you might have noticed, our primary focal point is the fashion industry, but we specifically focus on luxury brands. Can you tell me the first three luxury brands you can think of?

[Interviewee 1]: Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada

[AleB]: Can you spot three characteristics you think are fundamental in luxury?

[Interviewee 1]: Quality, heritage… No, sorry, the first it’s craftsmanship, then heritage and mmh.. I would say, I don’t know how to phrase it, but in a word it’s like something more than just a piece of clothing... So like maybe art or passion, yeah that’s a good word, passio I would say.

[AleB]: Passion, ok, I like it. What do you think that makes you buy luxury brands, in general?

[Interviewee 1]: I mean, a lot of people would say it’s quality, but I wouldn’t agree on that.

Most times, if you are really honest with yourselves, when you buy the stuff for yourself it’s not about quality, it’s about buying something special, that you are treating yourself, that you kind of take part in something bigger, in a way. For ex, if you buy something from LV or Hermes, they have such a long tradition, they are established and well-known fashion houses,

even if it’s whatever quality, you are kind of a part of it. Also, like when you look at new luxury brands like Acne or maybe also maybe Stone Island as a luxury brand, you can argue about it but still you have to know about it, you don’t buy it because you want to show off but you buy it because you like what it stands for, maybe also you like the people that wear it, like how the just use the brand and its heritage.

[AleB]: So like feeling part of a community?

[Interviewee 1]: Yes and no, not part of a community but like part of something bigger, and that you can show that you are also part of this informed society.

[AleB]: What is the benefit that you feel you get from buying luxury? Also considering a psychological point of view.

[Interviewee 1]: Yeah, I mean, that’s what I’ve already said, kind of feel that you are part or are taking part of something bigger, you definitely treat yourselves, because you say that that is something you deserve, it’s something special, and even though it’s not way much better quality than other stuff, it’s still something special and which makes you feel good.

[AleB]: So that you feel better in a way?

[Interviewee 1]: Yeah, it brings you joy, in a way. You say “Oh wow, I was able to treat myself and to give something to myself”. It also gives joy just looking at it, and say “wow this is really cool wallet or shoe or whatever”. And then you can do something with it and it just makes your daily life just a bit more enjoyable.

[AleB]: Perfect! So the brand we are going to discuss in this interview is Louis Vuitton. Do you own something from Louis Vuitton?

[Interviewee 1]: No.

[AleB]: Why, if I can ask? Have you ever though to buy something from it?

[Interviewee 1]: I thought about it, yes. I didn't buy anything yet, because, ehm… I didn’t find any piece that made my say “oh wow, I need to have it”. Also, for sure, taking into account my financial situation, so maybe there was like a backpack that was really nice but it was 5000€, so you say “yeah, maybe for a backpack it it’s a bit too much”, but like for example a belt, a cardholder, maybe some sneakers… That’s something where you say “yeah maybe that’s a piece that I could definitely buy”. Maybe also in the near future.

[AleB]: Have you ever entered a Louis Vuitton shop?

[Interviewee 1]: Yes.

[AleB]: Where?

[Interviewee 1]: Mmh… At the first time in Frankfurt, but also… Basically, like, all over the world. I mean, not all over, but like for sure in Rome, Milan, LA.., in Copenhagen, ehm...

[AleB]: Yeah, yeah, it’s fine thanks! How often do you think you encounter the brand? Like in social media, people in the streets...

[Interviewee 1]: I mean, quite a lot. Also, I’m following it on Instagram, I’m not sure about Facebook, but let’s say Instagram, which is one of the sources where I get my information from or inspiration, however you wanna call it. And especially in the last year or two it increased a lot, because LV raised a lot of attention also in other blogs that I follow, just because of their activities basically… Like, Louis Vuitton x Supreme collection, Virgi Abloh becoming the creative director got a lot of attention and you are exposed to that a lot.

[AleB]: And like people around? Do you see a lot of people wearing the brand?

[Interviewee 1]: Mmh yeah, I mean… No, not really. From my friends, they have some smaller stuff, like wallets or belts, this kind of stuff but not in a way that you have major pieces of the runway collection or something.

[AleB]: So, our thesis has a focus on authenticity. Now we will go through the dimensions of authenticity that we chose to analyse in relation to this case and we will ask you some questions for each of them.

Firstly we will talk about heritage. For your information heritage can be described as “a transporter of historical values from the past to the present and future and an element that adds value in the eyes of consumer.”

So, LV was founded in 1854. What do you think about it? I mean, do you generally care about the “since whatever year”, in this case 1854, for luxury brands?

[Interviewee 1]: Yes, of course. Because it stands for…for a sort of continuation, so you know that if it’s this old it will also carry on for the next 100 years, so you know it’s not something coming out in the last two years. For example, I know that Louis Vuitton started as trunk-maker and now they continued that tradition and skills in the suitcases, so it’s like that their history brought them where they are now. Like now in the fashion world there are some many labels coming up, getting a lot of hype and then die out… Maybe in the luxury sector not too much,

it’s more streetwear, but still in fashion. I mean, since it’s so fast moving it actually something you should stress it out and that it’s nice to have for sure.

[AleB]: So you appreciate it.

[Interviewee 1]: Yeah, yeah, definitely. I appreciate it, it’s something you can count on basically. It’s not like that if you buy a piece of it you say “oh ok so now this will be out of trend” or like “ok so this will be 70% off somewhere the next year and none will wear it anymore”... Or that you cannot wear it anymore because they do major fuck-ups with this...

[AleB]: Yeah you are right, it’s something you can count on, yes. So, how would you describe LV using three adjectives?

[Interviewee 1]: I mean it’s really, i would say, traditional, mmh… French, … [AleB]: Like, try to think about the products that you see.

[Interviewee 1]: Yeah but it’s really hard… it’s… in a luxury also, but they also have these products like the handbags and they have so many of those and so many girls wear them, so it’s not that exclusive, so I didn’t say exclusive or something. But the ones I said.. yes

[AleB]: So traditional and French.

[Interviewee 1]: Yes, I mean, it’s pretty traditional if you compare it with other brands like Balenciaga or Prada… I mean, they are also big fashion house but from their aesthetic they are way more cutting edge in a way or way more avant-garde than LV… LV always kind of sticks to a certain design language, maybe now it went a bit more crazy with Abloh but it’s always the same pattern and in a way wearable and not too much provocative, compared to other fashion houses.

[AleB]: Ok, so, you already said that LV is traditional and that you care about the “since when”

a brand was found. Do you think that the heritage that a brand has could influence its imagery?

To make it clearer, imagery refers to the intangible elements of the brand.

[Interviewee 1]: Yeah definitely, it is always something very important in fashion… I mean, this could be questioned but, as a fashion house, you have your basis maybe since hundred years or longer and then you also try to think about yourself in a new way, but still it’s something…

Your heritage influences your products, your brand on a major level. And that is also something that distinguishes brand… Louis Vuitton compared to Hermes, compared to Prada, Yves Saint Laurent.. this kind of brands, even though maybe they are all French or something, they have different histories. But back to the question… I mean, heritage is of course influencing the image of the brand, because heritage is what makes me trust the brand. Because of heritage, I

know what the brand was in the past, which is influencing the brand now. Heritage represents consistency and timelessness, and this is how I think about the brand in that sense, so it gives me a positive image of the brand.

[AleB]: Among LV core values we can find timelessness, travel, being inspiring. For what you know, do you think that these values are transposed to the products?

[Interviewee 1]: Timelessness it’s what I said earlier, it’s about some sort of consistency, and not too much building on the newest trends and not too much building on the hypest stuff…I mean, that what’s made that Supreme collaboration even… That makes it so special and that’s why people kind of freaked out about it, because that is something quite unusual. But normally they are super timeless, super consistent, like I said.

Travel is basically what I said, that they have always this special link in their suitcases and bags and also that they are international, from Paris to the world, being super successful in Asia, in the Middle East and stuff like that.

And being inspiring… also what I said, they they always try re-imagine themselves and to bring something new even though it’s timeless and kind of consistent, they always try to do that. For example, taking something from streat wear with Virgin Abloh and bringing it to a completely new audience.

[AleB]: Do you think that heritage could be link to these values that with just said? And could heritage influence these?

[Interviewee 1]: Yeah definitely, I mean, travel is based in this. Timelessness definitely heritage, because they say “Ok, we are so old and you can wear us now but also in 100 years”, so yes. They are definitely linked to each other.

[AleB]: You said that you believe that LV has a strong heritage, what type of behaviour are you then likely to engage with LV?

[Interviewee 1]: I mean, definitely like… Intention to purchase, so… Ehm… It’s a major brand, like I said. Of course it doesn’t only have its positive things, but definitely...

[AleB]: So you feel that the presence of heritage could influence your purchase?

[Interviewee 1]: Yeah definitely, because if you buy something you can always wear it… Like, if you buy a belt now you know that you can still wear it in 50 years of something… I mean, 50 years maybe it’s a bit too much, but you got the point.

[AleB]: Yes, yes [laughing]. Would you say that having a strong heritage could create a strong relationship between you as a customer and the brand, in this case LV? Considering that with

relationship we mean being more loyal, attached and engage. So for example re-purchase the brand...

[Interviewee 1]: It’s just influencing how i see the brand, but… It’s not because… I mean, I don’t buy more from LV… I mean, yeah. IT influences my relationship, it influences the way I think about the brand. But… Am I more loyal? Mmh… Yeah, yeah maybe.

[AleB]: Now we will talk about quality, another dimension about authenticity.

In your opinion, how is quality crucial when judging a luxury brand?

[Interviewee 1]: Mmh… That’s what I said already, like most people would say that, but it’s not… I mean, sure it’s high quality products but the people are not paying the prices and are not buying luxury brands for their extraordinary quality. They have a good quality, yes, but in my opinion it’s something you need to have, but it’s not the major aspect because you buy Louis Vuitton. You don’t buy LV and you say “Wow, this is so good quality”... It’s something you expect, because if you pay a thousand euros for a small bag then it has to be some sort of good quality, but it’s not the point why you buy it. And everybody saying that is just lying in my opinion.

[AleB]: What is your overall opinion of LV’s quality?

[Interviewee 1]: I mean, since I don’t own something I cannot tell you much but like, I have a Gucci belt and that is not a good quality. I mean, I have other belts not of luxury brands which have a way better quality than this one. And of course the Gucci one was way more expensive than the other ones. Also, I have a friend who has a Louis Vuitton wallet and it’s not like… it’s not made to last 200 years, that’s for sure.

[AleB]: You said that you believe that LV hasn’t high quality, and what type of behaviour are you then likely to engage with LV?

[Interviewee 1]: I mean… a higher quality could create intention to purchase. I mean, I also follow the brand and the collection and the last news, like two days ago they decided to pull back the last collection inspired by Michael Jackson because of the latest news around it, so they pulled it back and not taking it to the market, so I’m following the brand, but it’s not quality.

[AleB]: Would you say that having a high quality could create a strong relationship between you as a customer and the brand, in this case LV? Considering relationship as above.

[Interviewee 1]: Yeah but like I said quality it’s not the major point here, it’s not the quality that makes me buy LV. It’s something else… The heritage yes, but I would not the LV more because of its amazing quality.

[AleB]: Now we will talk about sincerity, another attribute of Brand Authenticity. Earlier we asked you to describe LV with three adjectives and you said traditional, French and passion.

Another attribute that could describe brands is “sincere”, which refers to the fact that the firm is acting with integrity and driven by its love for the product, instead of a merely economic purpose. Would you feel comfortable using this adjective for LV? Why?

[Interviewee 1]: Mmh… Not really. I mean, if you talk about the runway collection maybe, but all the stuff that stays more or less the same year over year like the small stuff like belts or wallets or whatever... They make a lot of many with that, because people like us can afford it and buy it so they make money with that, but they are not made of exceptional quality, but that is with every fashion house, also with Gucci or Prada. That’s how they make money, not the ten thousand euros sweater you see on the runway, because there’s a quite small target that can buy it.

[AleB]: How do you think that being sincere is an attribute that could influence the value of a brand?

[Interviewee 1]: I mean… Acting by integrity and not only for economic reasons you say…

That’s what I meant earlier when I said that they are part of a big group, LVMH, and that’s how it is… I mean, they want to make money. Maybe not too much with other brands outside of fashion, like I said, LV is still connected to passion as I said and passion is a form of art and they are part of that for sure… But still they want to make money. Maybe less than H&M, for example, because they purely want to make money, it’s fast fashion, but still it’s not a family owned, small luxury brand, where I would say, for example for Goyard I would say that this is more linked, because you don’t have many boutiques, you hardly get the stuff. I think that the nearest to here is Paris and that I heard that you are only allowed to buy a certain amount of stuff from there, so this is going in this direction of sincerity, but Louis Vuitton mmh...

[AleB]: Yeah, I got your point. Do you think that sincerity could impact the image that you have about LV? Considering image as above, the intangible elements that you refer to a brand.

In document Authenticity and Equity in Luxury (Sider 131-200)