Before engaging the methodology and data, the following hypotheses have been developed to steer the investigation, analyses and later on the discussion. It is the intention of this paper to use the MOAB framework to shed light on the research question and therefore the development of the hypotheses has been based on the theoretical framework itself and literature review from the previous section.
The MOAB model looks at the motivation, opportunity and ability factors that are enabling or disabling for sustainable behavior (Ölander & Thøgersen, 1995; Thøgersen, 2010; Thøgersen, 1994). It is therefore relevant to test the various construct’s individual influence on behavior, as well as the over all influence of the combined elements of the model on behavior. This will allow the testing of the construct’s predictive capabilities, influences on and explanations of behavior. The findings may then later be used to promote, stimulate and enable the consumption and use of fashion in a more sustainable way.
2.5.1 Motivation Hypotheses
Motivation may lie at the base of the requirements of sustainable behavior but it does not mean that it necessarily translates into behavior. However, there seems to be evidence that those consumers, who do behave in a sustainable manner or find sustainability to be an important issue in the purchase situation, are more motivated by their internal values (Ölander & Thøgersen, 1995) and belief systems and thus more prone to carry out this specific form of behavior even though it may entail certain opportunity costs.
Looking at the attitude aspect of the motivational construct, a central issue in connection with sustainable fashion consumption is the importance of the features of the fashion products. If these take on a much larger role than the sustainability of the product chances are that the consumer will not choose sustainable options (Gam et al., 2010;
Joergens, 2006; Meyer, 2001; Morgan & Birtwistle, 2009; Peattie, 2001).
Beliefs are a second decisive factor under the motivation construct. According to
previous research, some consumer are motivated by a general concern for the environment (an ethical reason) and the world we live in (an instrumental reason) and therefore choose to behave with more sustainable consumption practices based upon an altruistic motivation to make things better simply because it is perceived as the right thing to do (Meyer, 2001).
The value aspect is also important to look at. As shown by Niiinimäki (2010), it can be expected that a certain group of consumers are motivated by values in terms of their identity as, what she refers to as ethical hardliners. This is also supported by findings that suggest social motives as a motivation for sustainable consumption (Cervellon et al., 2012). This goes both for sustainable fashion consumption and fashion consumption in general alike (Goldsmith, Flynn, & Moore, 1996; Morgan & Birtwistle, 2009).
Furthermore, it also seems that when it comes to fashion in itself, values connected to identity, self-‐perception and style are three of the more prominent features that consumers place an importance on when choosing a product (Gam et al., 2010; Meyer, 2001).
In accordance with this, the hypotheses for the motivational aspect of the MOAB model is:
Hypothesis 1a (H1a): Consumers who place a high importance on other attributes (non-utilitarian) of fashion besides sustainability, such as design and style with aim of identity creation and popular pressure will most likely not engage in sustainable fashion purchase behavior.
Hypothesis 1b (H1b): Consumers who express a concern for the environment will be more prone to purchase sustainable fashion products.
Hypothesis 1c (H1c): Consumers with a with a strong need to fit in (popular pressure) will not engage in sustainable consumption practices but will engage in general fashion consumption.
2.5.2 Ability Hypotheses
Ability is a prerequisite for sustainable consumption behavior according to Thøgersen and Ölander (1995; 1994). Without the necessary ability, including task knowledge, habits and resources, it will not be possible for the consumer to carry out the specific behavior related to the task. Still, ability is most often dependent on motivation and opportunity, and ability alone may therefore not lead to the investigated behavior on its own.
Lack of knowledge seems to be one of the biggest challenges for sustainable fashion consumption (Cervellon & Wernerfelt, 2012; Joergens, 2006; Morgan & Birtwistle, 2009). Joergens (2006) points to labeling as being one of the deciding factors when ability is to lead to sustainable behavior but the consumer still needs to have the proper knowledge about the labeling scheme and the motivation in order to take advantage of it (Cervellon et al., 2012). Trust is another issue when dealing with sustainable fashion consumption. According to previous studies lack of trust in fashion brands and their claims presents a major hurdle in getting consumers to act more sustainably in the purchase situation (Cervellon et al., 2012; Joergens, 2006).
In terms of resources, time and money are the most important ones. If consumers do not have the time or the financial resources to engage in sustainable purchasing practices when it comes to fashion consumption, they will simply opt out (Hiller Connell, 2011).
Hypothesis 2a (H2a): Consumers will increasingly engage in sustainable purchasing behavior in relation to fashion products as their knowledge of sustainable fashion increases.
Hypothesis 2b (H2b): Consumers will as increasingly engage in sustainable purchasing behavior in relation to fashion products as their trust in brands and their claims increases.
Hypothesis 2c (H2c): Consumers will increasingly engage in sustainable purchasing behavior in relation to fashion products as their time and financial resources increase.
2.5.3 Opportunity Hypotheses
Opportunity factors are usually seen as external influences only. However, it is the argument of this paper that they can be divided into both internal and external opportunity factors. Opportunity factors can be internal in that any opportunity has within it the need for the consumer to recognize it as an opportunity before he or she is able to take advantage of it. As mentioned in the delimitation, the focus of this paper is only to deal with the internal factors and influences of behavior and the hypotheses concerning opportunity will thus only deal with the internal aspect.
As pointed out in the literature review, consumers are generally willing to make ethical and sustainable consumption choices when it does not mean that they have to go out of their way to do so. However, consumers need to be both motivated and posses the ability to take advantage of any opportunity before actual behavior can be carried out.
On the other hand, they do also need to perceive any such opportunity as meaningful (Cervellon & Wernerfelt, 2012; Hiller Connell, 2011) in order to take advantage of it.
This is what Thøgersen (2010) refers to as an “efficacy-‐related negative” influence. Even though a sustainable product option is available where the costumer shops it also needs to be available at the right price and quality (Joergens, 2006) in order to constitute an actual opportunity.
Based on this, the following hypotheses have been developed:
Hypothesis 3a (H3a): Consumer have to perceive the action of acting in a sustainable manner when purchasing sustainable fashion products as meaningful in order for them to actually do so. If they do not perceive it to make a difference then they will not engage in it.
Hypothesis 3b (H3b): If consumer perceive price and quality levels as very important they will not be likely to engage in sustainable fashion purchase behavior.
CHAPTER 3:
METHODOLOGY
Methodology
The methodology chapter introduces the reader to the methodological choices and considerations that make up the research design of this paper. In order to develop a good research design it is also necessary to consider the scientific approach and the theory of science stance, which has been adopted in the research for this paper. Next, an explanation of the actual research design, including the considerations and limitations will be presented. The data collection method will thereafter be accounted for and the initial data processing method and tools will then be presented. Finally, the method of data analysis will be considered and accounted for.
